OVER TEA AND BAK KUT TEH

by Jasmine | January 29, 2020
The test is not about time, but about spirit. Holding fast to the belief that tea breeds conversation among individuals, Kenry Peh, at the helm of the fourth-generation family tea business, Pek Sin Choon, is up for the test of spirit.

It is eleven and we are seated a local bak kut teh eatery. He carries along a metal tin — its sheen still shiny — and then waves several greetings to the staff. Once seated, he takes out the contents of the tin: four ceramic cups, a pot, and some plates. He unpacks the tea and begins placing the kettle on boil.

This is how bak kut teh is eaten: hot soup with hot tea.

Bak kut teh, a local delight of a semi-peppery, semi-herbal taste, is to be consumed with tea. This knowledge, for many of the younger generation, is new. Over a meal, Kenry Peh, at the helm of the fourth-generation family tea business, Pek Sin Choon, shares his journey staying relevant across different generations.

Staying true to the belief that tea fosters conversations, Peh is excitable just reminiscing about the past. Indeed, several decades later, many things still stay: traditions, employees and tea. But what is most important, he says, is the spirit. Beginning from a place of humble posture, he never sees the business or the growth as something he is entitled to. Having managed Pek Sin Choon for over 20 years, Peh shares about the spirit of tenacity that was built through tough and tougher times.

STEWARD WELL

Peh started as a little kid who never liked the associations with tea — namely, the discipline to taste and differentiate various types of tea. Since his younger days, his grandfather would test the children about tea varieties and let them learn by heart the range of tea profiles. Should any of them get it wrong, his grandfather would not hesitate to scold them. It was a lesson learnt at a tender age, about being clear of what is before you. At that age, that was the types of tea.

Fast forward several years and he is now involved in the business. Managing economic recession on top of business expansion plans, Peh grew passionate about the family business. During one economic recession, he shares about a plan of diversifying into the pepper business, an important condiment used in bak kut teh. Suggesting that idea then as a young adult meant approaching their bak kut teh clientele to carry their goods, liaising with the suppliers, and ensuring the business takes off. Although it was a load he shouldered alone, Peh carried through the idea. That single decision carried this traditional business through a rough patch.

And now, as a new millennium approaches, Peh is learning what it means to steward his resources well in this age of digitalization and fast-paced living. Having been taught the importance of tea, he hopes to preserve the spirit of conversation while remaining relevant.

‘Opportunities don’t come for everyone, but for those who have it and cannot keep to the small things, then the big things can’t be accomplished too.’

Image: Photographs at Pek Sin Choon along Mosque Street.

SPIRIT OF TENACITY

In running a business, he shares that there are times when many doors will close. But it is at moments like these that a true innovator rises. He describes difficulties as the nemesis that one will be thankful for.

He tells himself that he need not judge himself against others — both on the lower pedestal, and the higher pedestal. For him, managing what is before him at the present moment is what will bring him through the next. Pek Sin Choon will stay true to tradition and stay relevant to times. The hope for the younger generation is that they will merge their knowledge and self-discipline for good use. ‘Opportunities don’t come for everyone, but for those who have it and cannot keep to the small things, then the big things can’t be accomplished too,’ he adds.

The choices he made and makes are oftentimes, harder and longer — harder measured by the hours, grit and sweat; longer measured by the years, relationships and assurance.

Towards the end of the sharing, Peh adds: ‘On the outside, it appears to many people that we’re taking on many things. But in reality, we’re actually slowly surrendering many things, too.’

‘On the outside, it appears to many people that we’re taking on many things. But in reality, we’re actually slowly surrendering many things, too.’

Image: A staff of Pek Sin Choon serving tea.

DREAM BIG WHILE YOU CAN

Every now and then, Peh catches himself in his thoughts, and then proceeds to pour us a cup of tea. “Come, drink some tea,” he will say.

On his last point, he believes that younger ones can and should fight harder. Having spent five years under a direct mentor, also his father who would use a final spring cleaning exercise to finalize his ‘graduation’, Peh was proud of where he has come thus far. His younger days, before the time he was married, to the time he was married and had kids were all devoted to the family business.

‘When I was younger, I did many things. I wanted to do many things, and I did it.’ Recounting his younger days was uplifting, he would ramble on about his stories as the cup of tea grew cold. Then, he would pour another cup.

‘For our next successor, we need someone who has a strong belief in what tea means for Pek Sin Choon. That way, the true spirit of the business will continue.’

His final mission before retirement would be to pass the baton on, an impending task that he sees as important, although not entirely urgent. Having taken on the responsibilities as a fourth-generation owner, he knew and tasted firsthand how difficult, distracted and discouraging the role could be at times.

‘For our next successor, we need someone who has a strong belief in what tea means for Pek Sin Choon. That way, the true spirit of the business will continue.’

It is safe to conclude, that Peh has passed the test of the spirit. Even as he past his 50th year, he is not seeking to be comfortable. He recognizes both the need for older beliefs in terms of conversation and slowing down, as well as appreciates the value of staying relevant in a changing society. Peh embraces his wisdom and lives it out through Pek Sin Choon.

Over tea and bak kut teh, this is one man’s wisdom from one generation to another.